Banking Services in Alonnisos

Should you need access to an ATM or other conventional banking services while visiting Alonnisos, there is a full-service branch of the National Bank of Greece located in Patitri on the main road that leads up from the port. It is perhaps 75 meters from the sea on the left side of the street. The ATM, which accepts all standard cash/credit cards, is of course located on the exterior of the bank (see photo to your right).

The ATM is obviously available 24/7 (providing it doesn’t run out of Euros or experience some other type of failure). Should you need to phone the bank while on the island, the local number is: 24240 65777.

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Kokkino Kastro Beach

Kokkino Kastro beach is a very popular beach, but in all my visits to Alonnisos I must admit I’ve only been there twice because it’s much more convenient for us to spend time at beaches closer to the Old Village (e.g., Megalos Mourtias). Like most beaches in Alonnisos, Kokkino Kastro is comprised of stones as opposed to sand. That means for optimum comfort you’ll either need to rent a beach chair, use a heavy-duty beach mat, or have an air mattress to lie on. To see a brief YouTube video that shows a view of this lovely beach from the sea, click here.

Kokkino Kastro is perhaps 8 kilometers from Patitiri and about 11 kilometers from the Old Village. Because of this distance, walking there would be quite challenging for the vast majority of people, so that means you’ll probably need to either rent a motorbike or a car to get there, or take a taxi. The drive offers some very nice scenery on the way, and the good news is that the road is now paved all the way down to the parking area near the beach.

There is a snack bar on Kokkino Kastro beach but no full-service tavernas as far as I know. Also, if you are driving a rental car please be sure not to park in a place that would block entrance to a gated private driveway that borders the small road/path down to the beach.

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Kalovoulo Hike

Each visit to Alonnisos at least one time I make it a point to make the hike up to Kalovoulo (see photo to your right and it’s located in the center just below the clouds), the highest peak on the southeast side of the island. The view from up there is breathtaking as you can easily see the island of Skopelos, on a clear day mainland Greece in the distance, and a small islet very close to Alonnisos called “Agios Giorgos” along with the neighboring island of Skopelos (see photo to your left). From that vantage point the beautiful Aegean Sea looks as still as a mountain lake, and if you arrive at evening time on a mostly clear night you’ll typically be able to witness a magnificent sunset (see photo below right).
Getting to Kalovoulo

Kalovoulo is just to the west of the Old Village, and is reached via the use of a well-marked trail that can be accessed from a dirt road. To find this trail, follow the main tarmac road past the Old Village and just past the cemetery (on your right) make a left turn. From there just follow the road about a half a kilometer or less and then turn left again on a dirt road. Continue on that road perhaps 50 meters or so and on your right you’ll find the beginning of the trail.

Just a few minutes into your hike you’ll find a fence with a gate that is kept closed to prohibit goats from leaving that area. The gate can be opened by removing a small wedged-in bar. Once you are inside the fence please be sure to reinstall the bar so the gate is securely closed again. At that point the trail veers to your right and becomes quite steep (see photo of my wife Andrea to your left), so be prepared by wearing proper shoes (no flip-flop sandals!). Once you are past the first steep segment, the climb becomes a bit easier as you make your way through a fragrant pine forest. Always remember, however, to be cautious with your steps because there are loose rocks on the trail. As you ascend you will have access to glorious views of the Old Village, the beaches at Micros and Megalos Mourtias, the island of Evia to the south, the Two Brothers islets to the east, and the island of Peristera as well. To see a YouTube video of the types of views you will see on this hike, click here.

As you get further up the trail it becomes steeper again for perhaps 100 meters or more until you reach the first plateau (not the highest point though) where you can see clearly towards Skopelos and beyond (see photo to your right). While the altitude at this level is high enough to get great view to the west, if you’re interested in climbing higher to get an equally inspiring view back towards the Old Village it can be done, but there is no obvious marked trail to the actual summit. However, we have always found that other hikers have been conscientious enough to leave a series of stacked stones to mark one of the many paths you can take to reach the top.

 The reality is it’s perhaps just another 10 minutes to the summit, so I don’t want to leave the impression that it’s a long distance. However, because there is no prepared path you must be very careful when you climb this higher part of Kalovoulo, as there are numerous loose stones, and there are also very thorny bushes that would be very painful if you slipped and fell into them. Once you do reach the summit you’ll find a small cement pillar with an inscription in Greek to let you know you’ve indeed arrived there. On all our hikes we go a bit beyond the summit (i.e., a few steps further north) to find a clear spot that allows us to see all the way up island (see photo above left). The views are always very spectacular, and it’s also very peaceful up there. If you’re a fairly fit person and like to hike, I highly recommend you find time during your holiday to make this trip up to Kalovoulo – trust me, you won’t regret it.

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Chrissi Milia Beach and Taverna

Chrissi Milia beach is perhaps the only sandy beach on the island. Because of that distinction, it is a very popular destination for visitors. In all my visits to Alonnisos I must admit that I’ve only been to Chrissi Milia one time because it’s just so convenient for us to spend time at beaches closer to the Old Village (e.g., Megalos Mourtias).

This beach is perhaps 7 kilometers from Patitiri and about eight kilometers from the Old Village. Because of this distance, walking there would be quite challenging for most people, so that means you’ll most likely need to either rent a motorbike or a car to get there, or take a taxi. The drive offers some very nice scenery on the way, and the road is paved and very smooth.

Chrissi Milia beach offers full services (i.e., food and drink, restrooms, beach chair and umbrella rental). We visited the Chrissi Milia Taverna in July of 2023 and thought the food and service was excellent, and that the prices were fair based on visits to other restaurants/tavernas on the island. Because of this very positive experience we will most certainly eat there again, and I highly recommend that you do so as well.

To see a YouTube video of what Chrissi Milia looks like from the sea, click here.

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Walking Path between Patiriri and the Old Village

 If your accommodations on Alonnisos are in either in Patitiri or the Old Village, as an alternative to mechanized transportation you can use the old “donkey path” to travel between these two locations. We have used it numerous times over the years, and of course the way DOWN from the Old Village is much easier than the way UP from Patitiri! In either direction the scenery is excellent throughout much of the walk, and if you’re a person who is older or not in the best of physical condition, in a couple of different spots there are benches to rest on. Depending on your fitness level, it will take perhaps 25 – 35 minutes to walk from the Old Village to Patitiri, and anywhere from 30 – 45 minutes to walk up.

Although I don’t have any specific photos of the donkey path, the picture above shows where the path actually begins when coming from the Old Village. Specifically, if you look at the group of four houses in the center of the photo just to right of an ascending road (the road down to the beach at Megalo Mourtia), the path begins perhaps just 20 meters from the top of that road on the right side.

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The Port and Beach at Steni Vala

 The charming port of Steni Vala is located perhaps 15 kilometers from the main port of Patitiri, and about 18 kilometers from the Old Village of Alonnisos. Steni Vala is a lovely place to go and have lunch or dinner as there are some very good restaurants there. There is also a beach available there (see photo below left) that close friends tell me is lovely and rarely crowded, with clean white smooth pebbles and very clear water. Please note though that the water can be choppy if the wind happens to be coming down the channel. Please also note that Steni Vala has a small space available for campers and backpackers who prefer to “rough it” with their accommodations.

 It’s my understanding that Steni Vala used to be the more prominent of the two ports, but Patitiri eventually overtook it most likely because of its size and the fact that it’s closer to the neighboring islands of Skopelos and Skiathos. Because of its distance from Patitiri and the Old Village, unless you are a very serious walker you will obviously need to use some form of transportation. In this regard, your choices are to rent a car or a motorbike, to take a taxi, or to take the city bus that makes a few trips per day between Patitiri and Steni Vala. To reserve a car or motorbike with my recommended service provider I&M Motorbike and Car Rental via email click here. The city bus schedule is posted at the main bus stop near the taxi stand in Patitiri harbor.

Restaurants

With respect to a recommended restaurant, because we don’t visit Steni Vala all that often we don’t necessarily have a favorite estiatorio or taverna. In 2007 I ate at the first (and largest) restaurant you encounter, which I believe is called “Tassia’s,” and I found the food and service to be of good quality.

Another restaurant/café we’ve been to on more than one occasion we know as “Katina’s” and it, too, offers good food and service as well (the photo to your right is one taken at this restaurant, and gives you a good idea of the view). As a matter of background, Katina is the daughter of a very renowned Alonnisos seaman, Kostas Mavrikis, who was mentioned frequently in a book about sailing in the Sporades islands called “Gates of the Wind” by British author Michael Carroll. Katina’s son, Kostas, is involved in various businesses on the island, and is actually the person who founded the Museum of Alonnisos in Patitiri. Katina’s daughter, Iraklia, assists in managing the family’s businesses and also has her own scuba diving business that I’m told offers great diving opportunities.

 A third restaurant we’ve been to on several occasions is perhaps 25 meters beyond Katina’s, further toward the sea. Unfortunately, I don’t know the name of the place, but the photo to your left will give you an idea of the view it offers. We have always found the family that operates this restaurant to be very friendly and the food to be excellent in every respect. We usually show up there with a big group, and we always have a great meal and a wonderful time as well.

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Internet Access in Alonnisos

To check your email or surf the Web while on Alonnisos you have multiple options, for as of the summer of 2017 the vast majority of restaurants, cafes, hotels, pensions, and rental homes offer wireless Internet access. The businesses typically make the wireless connection available for free, but in the majority of instances you will need to ask the proprietor for the security code to join the network. In some cases, hotels and pensions only make the wireless connections available to their paying guests, which is fully understandable.

In Patitiri, I know for certain that wireless access is available to customers of the Ostria Restaurant. In the Old Village, the Kastro Restaurant offers free wireless access for customers, as does the Panselinos Restaurant and Bar, which is located right where the bus from Patitiri stops, and the Archontostasi Restaurant and Bar (also known as “Mary’s Bar). In addition, there are several other restaurants and hotels/pensions in the Old Village that offer wireless Internet access.

Whether you are in the Old Village, Patitiri, Votsi, Steni Vala, Milia Bay, or any other location in Alonnisos, you’ll need to check with the particular business (i.e., restaurant, hotel, etc.) about wireless access.

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Micros Mourtias Beach

Micros Mourtias is a small beach that is accessible from the Old Village of Alonnisos via a walking path. This path was originally used for donkey traffic down to a port that was adjacent to the beach. This beach is also accessible by car, motorbike, and by foot via a dirt road that originates near the Old Village. There is a small parking area that is near the last portion of the path down to the beach. There are no services (i.e., restaurants, rest rooms/water closets) at this beach so it generally attracts a smaller amount of visitors, except during the month of August when it can become quite crowded. The photo to your right was taken at Micros Mourtias and the mountain out in the distance is on the island of Evia.It’s my understanding that the port of Micros Mourtias was a hub of activity many years ago when it served as the primary arrival point for ships bringing both passengers and goods for the Old Village.

While there is still a small cement pier located there, there is no longer any commercial shipping activity. Occasionally a speed boat arrives and moors at the pier, but generally it’s not used at all. Fishing boatrs and sail boats also show up now and then and anchor out in the small bay. Like most beaches in Alonnisos, Micros Mourtias is comprised of stones as opposed to sand, with a good number of them being of the flat variety. That makes them great for skipping on the ocean, providing of course no one is out there swimming! For optimum comfort water socks are recommended, as is a beach mat and/or an air mattress. Since there are no services, be prepared to bring your own food and beverages.

Getting to Micros Mourtias

 The path to this beach from the Old Village is quite steep in parts, and over the years has served as my favorite place to hike on the island. The picture to your left shows the view of Micros Mourtias bay/beach from the point at which the walking path begins. Naturally, going down is quite easy; it’s the going up part that presents the challenge! Generally, if you’re in fairly good physical shape it should take you perhaps 20 minutes to walk down to Micros Mourtias from the Old Village; the return trip can take as little as 20 minutes (if you’re climbing aggressively) to as much as 30 minutes or more if you take more of a leisurely approach. In both directions the views are simply beautiful, and typically you rarely encounter anyone else during your walk. To see a very brief YouTube video that includes the types of views you’ll experience on the walking path and while visiting this beach, click here.

When I initially discovered and began hiking this path in 2000, it was very a very rough trail, but in 2007 it was widened and paved with stones in most places. Please note you also have the option of walking the road down to Micros Mourtias, but I don’t recommend it because it makes the trip much longer, and you run the risk of having to dodge a car or motorbike now and then. If you rent a motorbike or a car and want to visit this beach, follow the main tarmac road past the Old Village and just past the cemetery (on your right) make a left turn. From there just follow the road about a half a kilometer or less and then turn left again, then look for the first road you can turn left on and after several twists and turns you’ll end up at the parking area I referenced above. From there you need to walk down a small segment of the path to arrive at the beach.

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Reaching Alonnisos from Volos

If you are planning to reach Alonnisos by boat from Volos, then prior to your trip you need to reserve and pay for tickets tickets for the roughly 3.5 hour boat trip on to Alonnisos. To book passage, visit Ferryscanner.com.  The is fairly easy to navigate, just choose your ldeparture and arrival ports, the dates, and then follow the prompts. As of the summer of 2024, the old Hellenic Seaways (Flying Cats, Skiathos Express Ferry) no longer exist, and the dominant player in the market is called “Seajets.”

If you don’t have a smartphone, you may need to stop by the office of the travel agency in Volos that sells Seajets tickets (I’m pretty sure it’s called “Sporades Travel”) with your confirmation and they will print you actual tickets. They also may ask you for a passport for identification. When you have your ticket(s), if the boat is leaving shortly I recommend you promptly proceed to the boarding area which is across the street from the travel agency.

Flying Dolphin graphic_1_16Please note that a company called Aegean Flying Dolphins also operates an older boat called the Flying Dolphin that is much smaller than a ferry and less comfortable. They are however, a bit faster than the typical ferry, and the price of the tickets may be somewhat less. Note that if you have any concerns about rocky seas you may want to limit yourself to only booking a berth on a Seajets ferry. I recommend using the Ferryscanner.com site to learn what other boat options exist.

Staying in Volos

If the arrival time in Volos is such that you are unable to connect with a boat to Alonnisos, please check the Category Archives (to your right and up) under “Hotel in Volos” for information regarding the properties I recommend.

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Recommended Hotel in Skiathos – Stellina Hotel


In the summer of 2000, we found ourselves facing a six hour wait time for our flight from Skiathos to Athens because there were no hydrofoil boats available from Alonnisos later in that day. So, based on a recommendation from a friend, we booked a room for four hours at the Stellina Hotel in Skiathos. Because we only needed the room for such a short period of time, the owner Jorgos, was kind enough to give us a reduced price. We found the room to be the usual in that part of the world, small but comfortable, and were very impressed with the grounds of the hotel, particularly the pool, which by Greek standards is huge. We enjoyed our brief stay, and I have to admit that Jorgos was one of the nicest people we’ve ever encountered in Greece.

Two years later, we found ourselves in a similar situation, in that a ferry we were to take to Santorini didn’t leave for three hours. So, we took a taxi to the Stellina Hotel to say hello to Jorgos, and to ask if we could possibly fill the time we had by sitting around his pool and having a couple of beers. While he didn’t remember our names, he definitely remembered our faces and was just as hospitable as he was when we first met him. In answer to my question he said of course with a smile, and motioned us to leave our bags at the desk and head out to the pool. He then called a taxi for us when we were ready to leave. We returned to the Stellina Hotel yet again in 2016 and 2017 on our way home from Alonnisos, stayed for one night each time and were once again very pleased with the room and the customer service as well. Because of these very positive experiences, I highly recommend the Stellina Hotel for anyone looking for a place to stay on Skiathos.

The Stellina Hotel is located about a half-mile from the city center of Skiathos, and is perhaps two minutes away from the airport. All the rooms are furnished in the traditional Greek style with balcony and a wonderful view from most rooms. To visit the Stellina Hotel Website, click here. To book a room via telephone call 30-2427021900–4.

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